College No.9

A look at the cool collective of influences for the Oslo Modernist. Clothes, music, clubs and design for a lifestyle.
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Soul Singers Joke Backfires.

In June 1968 Peaches and Herbs singer Herb Fame was shot by his road manager Walter Booth. Herb was critically wounded in a motel in Columbia, Southern California after playing a gag that went horrifically wrong.

The accidental shooting happened after Herb knocked on Booths motel door and jokingly said, “Your money or your life”. Booth recognized Herb’s voice and going along with the gag went to open the door with a .38 calibre pistol in his hand. As he unlocked the door the gun accidentally went off, firing a shot through the door and striking the singer in the abdominal area. The bullet penetrated four layers of intestines causing a life threatening wound. Police arrested Booth who didn’t have a license for the weapon and he was held on a $5000 bail.

After regaining consciousness Herb told police from a hospital bed the story and Booth was released and charges dropped. The soul duo were on a national tour at the time and had to cancel bookings for July that cost the tour $50 000 in ticket sales. Thankfully Herb made a full recovery and the duo went on to have another five U.S Billboard top 100 hits between 1968 and 1970 to add to their seven other chart hits before spitting in 1971. The duo reformed in 1977 with Linda Greene replacing Francine Barker as Peaches. In 1978 the duo had their only U.S number 1 and UK top ten hit (reaching number 4) with the 70s soul smash Reunited.

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above;   Picture cover from Peaches & Herbs first release Close Your Eyes from 1967.

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Harry Stedman.

There was a buzz going round, the word was a new kid on the block was going to be making classic Ivy menswear. Ivy Jim was on board as a consultant and the project was being bank rolled by Phil Stedman, the son of a former Cunard Yank which the company was named after. Hopes were high, could it be that as America had lost its way with its classic Ivy silhouette Liverpools Harry Stedman was about to step into a nich market that saw Modernists and Ivy fans trawling vintage or waiting for John Simons to make? In the end it proved to good to be true, Jim became Cunard Jim and his ship sailed.  Stedmans moved position, offering some garments with Ivy influence, some without. Non the less Harry’s is a story of interest and some of his  products may well find their into way Modernists wardrobes. College No.9 caught up with Stedmans Johnny Ridley, to get the lowdown on Harry, his products and plans and lines in the future.

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above; Cunard Harry

 Where did Harry’s interest in the Ivy look stem from?

Firstly, we think it’s important to outline the fact we’re not an Ivy League label, though that style is thoroughly influential to the kind of clothing we have and hope to produce.                                                                          

Our designs are the result of detailed research into clothing from throughout the last century and we wouldn’t feel a singular label, Ivy for example, would be the fairest way to describe our brand. Detailed research into men’s attire feeds what we do and that is to help translate classic attire into something wholly modern, something today’s man can easily connect with.                                                                                                         

To answer your question about Harry’s taste for Ivy….he was first exposed to the Ivy look when visiting New York in the 1950s. Harry was a Cunard Yank one of the 25,000 sailors and stevedores that worked between the East Coast, South America and and New Zealand.  From these travels grew his love of American clothes and music.  Coming from drab, war broken Liverpool, America and New York in particular seemed like another world. Liverpool’s role in the growth of the popularity of American fashion and music has been well documented elsewhere and is in some senses a forgotten story that still lives strong through Harry. Seeing it all in the flesh helped shape his tastes as he was able to enjoy so many things (menswear and beyond) that hadn’t filtered over to his native Liverpool. He’d later become a style catalyst of sorts, bringing back his treasured clothes to parade in his hometown.

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 Where is the company based?

We’re based in London.

Will the clothes be produced entirely in the U.K?

Our garments are produced both in the UK and abroad; we seek out the best “man for the job” as it were, so look to align ourselves with manufacturers that can help realize our designs regardless of their location. 

What has been the most challenging thing about starting up the company?

One of the main challenges has been streamlining our vision for the future, working out exactly what parts of Harry’s colourful life to focus on and draw inspiration from. He’s travelled the world and been exposed to a range of cultures and styles, all of which helps us better understand clothing from the past - its value of the time, its purpose. His adventures have served as a divining rod of sorts, helping highlight periods in time we want to focus on. This has meant we do very much focus on the 50s and 60s, the most vibrant years of his youth.

I’m sure everyone who’s heard about a new company making classic Ivy clothing is looking forward to seeing Harry Stedman’s clothes. When can we expect to see them for sale?

 Our first batch of garments have recently debuted on our website; two classic ivy shirts, tees, our Drizzler jacket and a selection of grooming products. The later hail from a brand we greatly respect - Baxter of California.  Just in time for Christmas were two trousers made with Japanese twill, shirts made with Thomas Mason fabrics, five shirts made at the well-respected Brooks Brothers factory in USA, and hand-made in England leather belts. 

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The Drizzler coat, which we think is great.


In addition, we will offer via our website the following well-made and highly sought after products: Corgi socks, Shetland jumpers & scarves, and John Smedley jumpers and accessories. For Spring 2013 we have an entire new range of beautifully crafted clothing including macs, trousers, button down shirts, stripe t-shirts, unstructured jackets, anorak jacket…just to name a few.

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 above; Stedmans chino pants, complete with nice pocket detail.

How many lines will Harry be offering at the launch? Will he add more lines as the company grows or will you be just be doing a limited range?

 We’ve launched with a small selection of garments and with plans to add pieces in the near future, building toward a point whereby we can release a full, well-rounded collection season on season.

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Stedmans; A work in progress.

Will you be making garments in small runs? How many shirts or jackets in a cloth will you make for instance?

 Our garment runs will be sensibly small to begin with, to later expand to meet demand. Volume is related to success, we can only but cross our fingers and hope our wares are warmly received. 


Will your jackets feature floating canvas or fused construction? 

As of right now, we do not have tailored jackets that require canvas.  

In the future, we intend to offer jackets with floating canvas as that is a more traditional approach for quality construction.

Are there any specific vintage brands or garments that have served for inspiration behind your clothes?

 Lots!  There is not one specific brand that jumps to mind but there are a number of vintage pieces that we used for inspiration.  For example, our shirt produced by the Brooks Brothers factory is a specific re-invention of the classic Ivy League oxford button down shirt - one that’s not commonly available today.  Also, our Drizzler jacket was inspired by Drizzler jackets worn during the 1950’s in America, however, we updated the look and traditional fabric; opting to use shall we call it… a ‘technical’ material.

Can you tell us about the general process you go though to design and realise a garment?

We start by thinking of what feeling we want to portray to the customer and what feeling they will have when they wear the garment.  This feeling then inspires the look we’ll design for the garment.  We then go into our extensive research library and see who has worn clothing that has spoken the same way.   From there, we carefully consider what fabrics to use & interpret the design for a modern customer.

Of course you’ll be looking to walk before you can run but how do you see the company progressing? Any plans for a store in the high street?


A brick & mortar shop would be fantastic; it’s definitely something we’d love to do. Right now it’s a case of focusing on developing signature pieces and our line as a whole. Once we establish our fan base and truly own that “Harry Stedman look” when can talk seriously about growth to open a store.

 

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I guess your market is the Ivy style fans and the more sussed modernists. Do you see classic Ivy appealing to a broader section of the public with the right marketing? 

 To go back to our points in your first question, we don’t see ourselves as an Ivy brand. Yes, we will have pieces that use Ivy as a platform, as inspiration, but we would hope to be seen as a more dynamic brand. We’d hope our wares are seen as new classics, accessible clothes that can be worn in a variety of ways, thus lending themselves to a whole host of styles. 


You can check out the full range at Harry Stedmans here;

http://www.harrystedman.com/

You can also find them on Facebook;

https://www.facebook.com/harrystedmanclothing

The Casino Curse.

Diana Ross was so over come by the loss of her pet dogs in May of 1969 she cancelled performances at The Latin Casino in New Jersey. The death of the dogs, Tiffany and L’il Bit, led to the closing of the venue in Cherry Hill N.J after the dogs had eaten rat poison in The Supremes lead singers dressing room. Distraught over the accidental deaths of the dogs, Ross flew to her home in Los Angeles in the middle of the week long engagement, leaving the club without an act.

  Busloads of people from as far away as Washington had to be turned away from the club. David Doshoff, manager of the club was told by a Motown record company representative that Miss Ross never wanted to see the Latin Casino again and “couldn’t bear to go into the dressing room where her dogs died.”

The Latin Casino was also the venue where Jackie Wilson suffered a heart attack on September 25th 1975 that resulted in him spending the rest of his life in a coma until his death on January 21st 1984 aged 49. Brenda Lee broke her neck onstage during a performance at the club on June 12, 1962, aged 17. A host of R&B and pop stars performed during the clubs lifetime before it closed in 1978 and reopened as The Emerald City Disco club. Fire stuck the building in 1983 and it was pulled down 2 years later.

The list of top stars that played between 1960 and 1978 is testament to this 1 500 capacity venues status as the hottest nightclub in the area. 

John Lee Hookers original version of Boogie Chillen from 1948. 

The Dean & The Donn.

Once again College no.9’s head boy Dean Swift has gone Sartoria, this time he’s traded his hard earned for a pair of trousers by Donnanna of Napoli. Here he writes about his love of high end Italian tailoring, his new addition to his wardrobe, and the Donnanna brand.

It all started in Rome, a weeks break in the Italian capital. I suddenly found myself staring at a brushed cotton jacket in a shop window. I think it was the notching that caught my eye first, even before the colour, a racing green. My eye ran down the lapel and followed the notching til they were distracted by the green on green marble buttons. Soft shouldered, free and easy, very tailored and very elegant. The last button on the cuff undone, slack, non-caring. I was in awe. Looking back this was my Cunard Yank moment. Like those young modernists of the 50’s, I’d entered a new world of modernism, but this wasn’t a fast moving new world’s New York. This was the tradition of Italian tailoring, the finest fabrics, hand sewn by skilled hands. This jacket was attention to detail, but not in a “covered button on the hem of your trouser” way. This jacket was like nothing I’d ever seen. This jacket was Kiton.

And so began my love of high end Italian tailoring, though I didn’t buy the jacket. The shock of the price stopped me dead in my tracks. Luxury fabrics and hand labour doesn’t come cheap. This factor will always limit the amount of hand made garments I’ll own. I mean, I want it bad,  but so far its just a couple of pairs of Valentini trousers, three Sartoria Partenopea jackets, and two Bespoke Sabino suits. There’s a bit of Anglo as well but that’s another story. It has also led to a realization of what is worth buying and what isn’t.  Not everything has to be big bucks or hand made. RL Polo’s garments made in Italy offer value, for shirting Pasqui, Riccoverro and David Saddler shirts I really like. DNA Groove offer a good range of clothes and  shoes that look good. I can go on and on but this is all price point of course. Nobody in their right mind would say a DNA shirt is as good as a Van Laack, (above right) like you wouldn’t say a Van Laack is as good as a Kiton shirt. And of course you can go the other way, paying far too much for clothes that just can’t merit their price. Then there’s the illusion that some have about made to measure over ready to wear. I’ve seen a lot of really nasty made to measure suits that would never be allowed to grace the rails of any half right clothes shop. Johnny Backstreet will make you a suit to your measurements altered from a standard size pattern, but that doesn’t mean it will be better made or fit better than a Mark Powell RTW that’ll be altered to fit you better.

So to get the best gear at the best price what’s the way to go? The first stop has to be ShoptheFinest.com. I’ve mentioned them before, I know, but owner Ian Daniels offers service that matches product. Opening an account is easy, any questions are replied to promptly and shipping is fast. So it was there I looked when I wanted some Donnanna trousers. Donnanna is a newish venture that was launched on May 10th 2010 by La Vera Sartoria Napoletana of Naples.  The name comes from Anna Carafa. The daughter of a wealthy prince who married in the mid 1600’s and commissioned Italian architect Cosimo Fawzango to build a Palace in Naples. The Palace was known as La Sirena and later reffered to as Donn Anna’s.

La Vera claim Donnanna trousers are cut and made by hand, the curtains look machined to me, so the inseams maybe also, or maybe not. For sure the button holes, notching and pockets are done by hand and look fabulous. Horn is used for the buttons and fit is beyond doubt the best of any pair of trousers I’ve ever owned. The slim fit model is called Lazio and has a 11” front rise, the pair I purchased are made from a fantastic light weight wool in a twill weave and are lined to the knee with an 8.5 width at the knee and 8.25 at the cuff, an un-hemmed length of 37”. Retailing at 4000 NOK, STF are selling a limited number of these great trousers at 1300 NOK but only while stocks last, which I don’t think will be very long. I’ve a second pair on the way.

Les Modernists, view point from across the water.

Actor Carl Boehme arrives on set for the 1960 British cult film Peeping Tom.

Stevie C shows his smooth dancing skills in this short promo for Baracuta.

Big boss man. The Gouster.

Chicago Gousters.

  As Ivy League fashion swept the USA in the 50’s and 60’s small groups of youths formed their own looks and fashions that varied from city to city. One such youth culture was Chicago’s Gousters. Taking much of their look from the casual dress styles of the 30’s and 40’s. As well as having adopted a look that separated these youths from the standard American attire of the time the Gousters also had their own style of music. Listening to New Breed and soul releases of the time including of course the driving R&B that Chicago is famous for.  Dance clubs and juke dives were a big part of the movement with kids dancing as cool as they looked.

Although never a huge movement during its time from the late 50’s to mid 60’s the scene was enjoyed by many of Chicago’s black youth and in 1964 local group The Five Du-Tones released their 4th single on George Leaner’s One-derful Chicago label; The Gouster (backed with early 80’s mod club oldie Monkey See, Monkey do) as a tribute to the cool dancers of this youth subculture.

above; From the 1975 film Cooley High, a cult classic and filmed in Chicago. The film was written by Eric Monte and was set in Chicago in 1964, the clothes and story line was based around Monte’s  experiences during his youth spent at Cooley Vocational High School in the city and in the housing projects Cabrini-Green were Monte grew up. Both the housing projects and the school have since been demolished. Very Little seems to be known of this Chicago youth movement that was popular amongst African-American kids from the projects. Monte’s film offers the best insight to the clothes and attitude of these young hipsters and the film is available on DVD.

above; Some of the buildings that made up Cabrini-Green projects.

below; Cooley Vocational High School.

Wild Child, remembers her dance hall nights and the fashionable looks amongst boys in the club scene of The Windy City.

source; http://boomacious.com/

“I recently encountered an old friend who lived in the neighborhood back in the day. He lived on 35th Street and I lived on 31st. We were from the same neighborhood and attended the same high school. He was the coolest guy in history. Not only was he fine, he could DANCE. His fashion identity was Gouster style. I can still smell the Jade East.

Time had done him wrong and it started me wondering what time had done to me. I thought back on those days when we were young and would go anywhere to attend a dance. If a guy could Bop, he was king of the night.

Whether he was your lover, your good friend, or kind of like a play brother, back in those days, boys had one of two popular fashion styles, Gouster or Ivy League. An Ivy Leaguer was a collegiate wannabe, a 60’s version of J. Crew with just a touch of swagger. His style was straight-legged pants, sometimes with a belt buckle in back; a buttoned-down collar shirt; and tinted glasses.

Ivy Leaguers shopped at Brooks Brothers where they specialized in starched, buttoned-down shirts with French cuffs and cufflinks. The Ivy Leaguer would complete the look with a V-Neck, wool blend sweater thrown over the shirt to give us girls a thrill.

A Gouster’s style was dress-casual. He wore lose fitting, almost baggy clothes. His fine wool, alpaca and mohair sweater had three buttons at the neck, with a lazy, turned down collar. Pants with two pleats at the waist left a little room in the leg so that a Gouster could pimp. He usually pimped on down to Smokey Joe’s Fashion House to buy more fabulous outfits. As I said earlier, Gousters favored Jade East, while Ivy Leaguers spruced up with Aramis.

Girls were just beginning to wear pants, and many of us still wore mini-skirts and dresses to dances in order to show off our legs. Girls shopped at Brooks Brothers to show their allegiance to an Ivy Leaguer if that was who they were dating at the time. Sometimes we’d wear the sherbet colored, buttoned-down shirts, with plaid, pleated mini-skirts, matching knee socks, and suede, lace-up shoes called “Bucks”.

If we were dating a Gouster we’d wear cardigan sweaters that buttoned down the back and tight skirts, with pearl earrings and pearl necklaces. We’d finish that look with nylon stockings and Cha-cha boots.                                                             

Pedwins are in kids, get the groovy gear on your feet.

John Lee Hookers first recording from 1948.