College No.9

Month

October 2011

21 posts

WAY ON DOWN under.

  David Robinson lives in Adelaide, Australia, the singer-songwriter played in a host of mod bands thoughout the 80’s in Adelaide. David is still very active on the Adelaide music scene playing most weekends. David was the winner of the ‘Working Life’ section of the 1997 SCALA Songwriters Event with his composition Monday Bloody Monday. David also writes, and his poetry has appeared in the Derbyshire Evening Telegraph and Write Away.  He has had articles and reviews published in Rip it Up, Trad & Now, Australian Cyclist, Infolkus, Modern Times, SCALA News, Cycle and  The Fix. He was a significant contributor to the modernist retrospective book, Stark Raving Mod, published in 2010. David works as a civil servant and the most pleasure he gets from his work is wearing tailor made suits and traveling to and from on a fully restored 1963 Vespa 150 GL. He counts his six-word letter to The Guardian, published in March 2005, amongst his finest literary achievements!

   David has very kindly allowed College no.9 to reproduce some of the articles he has written about his experiences on the Adelaide modernist scene. Here he writes about the early days, the struggle to get hold of the music, clothes and a scene going. Its peak as a scene and it’s demise and the bands that came along the way.

           THIS WAS THE MODERN WORLD!

On a warm Wednesday night in November 1981, the Aurora Hotel on Pirie Street played host to a gig featuring The Vents, The Bonython Parkas, and The Urban Guerillas. There were 20-odd scooters parked out front, each one showing that it held a special place in its owner’s life. Bedecked with chrome and mirrors, they also sported personalised paintwork and other unique details. They were predominantly Vespas, but there were enough Lambrettas to create a contrast.

Inside the hotel, a large number of people danced, drank and smoked the night away. The Lounge Bar was noisy and dark as the bands livened up the crowd. The clothes the people wore told the casual onlooker a little about themselves. Desert boots, Shelley’s Jam Shoes, button-down shirts, braces, Harrington jackets, suits, Doc Martens, and parkas (yes, even indoors). These were Adelaide’s mods, doing what they did most weeks.

From late-1981 through to mid-1983, Adelaide experienced the peak of something that vaguely resembled a mod ‘movement’, but seeds were being sown as early as two years before that (‘senior’ readers may choose to recall Adelaide in the late 1960’s). In 1979, there were plenty of people who didn’t particularly get into punk rock, yet didn’t like the ‘dinosaur’ and ‘corporate rock’ bands of the early-mid seventies either. Something new was needed. 

Fans of ‘new music’ had been importing singles from England, and discerning local kids were getting into The Jam, and other ‘not-mod-but-close-enough’ bands like Magazine, XTC, and Dexy’s Midnight Runners. And of course, the ska revival didn’t completely pass Adelaide by. There was a freshness about it that drew people in.

In these days of instant access to all manner of worldly things (via cable TV and the Internet), it is hard to imagine just how difficult it was in the early 1980s to get hold of records, tapes, clothes and current news from the UK. I have personal recollections of listening to ‘DJ Roundtable’ on the BBC World Service via short wave radio. I ordered singles (unheard) through Melody Maker and NME that would arrive months later, if at all. I trusted people with my ‘hard-earned’ as they trekked to Sydney to find me a proper fishtail parka. There were about six Fred Perry casual shirts in the whole of the state. Quite different to today’s challenge of sifting through phenomenal amounts of garbage until you find what you really want.

There was (still is) a reasonably healthy alternative music scene, and Adelaide’s first ‘new’ mod band was The Jump. An energetic trio, The Jump played a series of exciting gigs in 1980, and in true ‘My Generation’ fashion, had split by the end of that year. Although their existence was brief, they are remembered as one of the foundation stones of the Adelaide mod revival. They were the first band to play their frenetic post-punk music resplendent in three-button suits, standing in front of Vox amps and making full use of Jam-like power chords. They even made it as far as the recording studio, cutting a version of an original number, ‘Crying for a Girl’. The track would have fitted quite nicely on The Jam’s ‘In the City’album. Never released, all that remains of the song today are memories. After the break-up, some of The Jump’s members formed or joined other bands, which would entertain the mods until 1984 or thereabouts.

Another significant event was the release of The Who’s classic mod movie ‘Quadrophenia’, which was shown regularly on the same bill as ‘The Kids Are Alright’, at various art-house cinemas. The number of scooters parked out the front of the cinemas steadily increased.

In early 1981, half a dozen mods sat in McDonalds, thinking about how they might get in touch with like-minded people. They had noticed people in Rundle Mall who looked like they might be mods, and had seen other scooters tearing about the place, and they had friends who were showing interest in this new music, new fashion. After leaving notes in the appropriate sections (Jam, Madness, Who, Otis Redding etc) in record stores, expectations were high for a great turnout on a Wednesday night in March, at the Aurora Hotel.

It was a modest turnout, at best. But it was a start. The mods had a venue.

The Aurora proved the catalyst, and from those humble origins, the Adelaide mods were born. Within 3 months a mod magazine had produced its first issue, bands had formed and played, scooter runs had taken place, a nightclub had been ‘adopted’, and the obligatory factions and cliques had started to appear… Punk fanzine DNA carried regular updates of news and gigs, in those days the link between punk and mod was nowhere near as cavernous as it later became.

Wednesday nights at The Aurora became a popular haunt for many. The mods had even received a letter from Paul Weller; to say thanks for the birthday card. He must have been well chuffed, getting a card signed by thirty or forty pissed Australians.

Clothes were obviously important, and all the trimmings of mod style and fashion were present, although not necessarily subscribed to by all. Some wore tailor-made 3 button suits, button down shirts and parkas, others stuck to their skinhead origins and kept the t-shirt, Harrington and Docs, and some were too blitzy or punky to be called mods at all, but were nice geezers anyway. In Adelaide, you needed all the help you could get… Fred Perrys were rare, so plenty of mods bought the local Bonds equivalent and a unique element of style was born, the ‘Fred Penguin’ shirt (named after the logo).

The bands were noisy, and gigs were not regular. The Vents played plenty of ska, soul and mod covers, a few originals, and had a good time even if they didn’t sound all that flash. 

The Bonython Parkas also played mainly covers, but were a lot more polished. They had one truly great original tune, entitled ‘Until Tomorrow’, which had all the makings of a mod anthem. Like ‘Crying for a Girl’, the track was professionally recorded yet never released. It’s a pity that the Bonython Parkas didn’t play more. 

Other bands like The Urban Guerillas and The Del Webb Explosion weren’t mod (or mods) at all, they were popular with mods because they either played with mod bands or somewhat erroneously advertised themselves as mod, in order to appeal to a guaranteed crowd. 

The Urban Guerillas (still going, now based in Sydney) played originals. Fast, poppy tunes with elements of punk in the music, and social commentary in the words. The Guerillas have released a number of CDs, and can be easily traced via the Internet. The Del Webb Explosion were Adelaide’s answer to Dexy’s Midnight Runners. They released a single in 1983, ‘Gardening as Finer Art’. It still sounds pretty good.

The mods listened to the types of music one would expect, as well as a few surprises. American soul, Small Faces, all of the new mod bands, ska, The Who and The Kinks were popular with most, although everyone had their favourites. Along with these ‘modder than mod’ sounds, you sometimes heard strains of the Sex Pistols, or the meanderings of Joy Division, emanating from a stereo somewhere. The former was obviously a legacy from previous associations, while the latter was a sign of things to come for a few of the mods. 

Whatever the preference, music played a huge part in the lives of all.

There were scooter runs to Victor Harbor on Public Holiday weekends, which featured gigs by the mod bands, a DJ spinning Tamla, ska and mod music all night, and plenty of time to hang around at the beach, living out Quadrophenia fantasies. Some of the Adelaide mods went to Melbourne for the big Easter gathering in 1981. In Melbourne they saw gigs by The Sets, Division 4, and The Little Murders, and enjoyed being part of a large group of mods. It was a treat to be rubbing shoulders with the likes of Gary and (the late) Don Hosie from The Sets, and fanzine editor Steven Dettre. They came home with photos, super-8 movies, copies of singles by The Little Murders and others, and some great memories. Melbourne was also useful for establishing contacts in other states, and not long after Easter was over, copies of magazines like ‘Shake and Shout’, ‘Get Smart’ (both Sydney), ‘Start’and ‘Go!’ (Melbourne) and ‘Who What Where and How’ (Perth) started finding their way to Adelaide.

The Adelaide media only made the smallest of efforts to attract mods or publicise mod acts, but Adelaide’s mods managed to apply enough pressure on one local identity to stimulate the release of ‘4 Side Effects’, a Jam sampler which made the radio 5AD music charts in September 1981.When ‘TV Guide’ ran a competition to win a Vespa, they used local mods as part of the advertising campaign. The local music show, ‘Music Express’, occasionally asked the mods to be part of the audience, especially when the show was to feature The Jam and/or ska bands.

In a couple of questionable moves, mods and their scooters were invited to take part in the 1981 Glenelg (or was it Port Adelaide?) Christmas Pageant, and to provide a scooter ‘escort’ to Simple Minds, from Adelaide Airport to their Hotel, as part of their Australian tour. Both invitations were accepted.

For a couple of years, mods in Adelaide had plenty to do. Scooter runs, Martini’s Nightclub and Wednesdays at The Aurora kept people busy.


Photo: Rita Bruche

The mods latched onto a rhythm and blues band called ‘The Kingbees’, which featured ex-members of The Vents. They played from around 9.30pm until 2.00am every Saturday night, at The Saloon in North Adelaide. The place was full most weeks, and all types of people drifted in and out. R&B fans, older hippie-types, people off the street, but the audience was predominantly mods and their friends. It was a great scene, but it was also the last hurrah.

After three years of debating whether or not ’ Jimmy died at the end of the Quadrophenia’, and/or that ’ Stax is better than Motown’, people were showing signs of growing tired of the whole thing. Some of the mods surprised their friends by turning up to The Aurora in camouflage pants, wanting to talk about Oi music. Others preferred to stay at home and watch ‘Brideshead Revisited’ rather than go for a drink. Musical tastes were broadening. 

People were listening to Teardrop Explodes, Joy Division, David Bowie, The Stranglers and just about anything else. Various groups of mods had less and less to do with each other.

A lot of people had their interests stimulated by other things. Chemicals, various types of music, philosophy. Some wanted a vehicle that went a bit faster and/or kept you a bit warmer. Some got married. Like a lot of small communities, plenty of people were simply getting sick of seeing the same old faces all of the time. By 1984, The Kingbees had split and the mods had all but gone.

Two years after that, The Aurora had been knocked down and replaced with a multi-storey car park. All the bands had split, most of the scooters had disappeared, The Saloon had burnt down, and the parkas had been neatly folded and placed in garden sheds. Everyone was older and wiser, and only small groups stayed in touch with each other. In short, times had moved on. It was the end of the mods as far as most were concerned.


Photo: Rita Bruche

It’s probably been said before, but I can’t resist a good line:

‘Hope I die before I get old’ had been replaced by ‘Hope I get old before I die’.

Amen to that.


© Copyright David Robinson, 2000

Not to be reproduced without the permission of the author

Oct 31, 20113 notes
Play
Oct 27, 2011

Oct 26, 20111 note

Oct 25, 2011
Jumping With The Blues

Swinging and jumping, taking the popular swing music of the time and adding the blues scale Jump Blues became the dance music choice of the young and hip from the late 1930s into the mid 50s. Jump blues was the precurser to R&B and RnR. Kansas City was the first to champion this new sound, Walter Page and his Blue Devils and Bennie Morten became the hottest acts in the city in the pre-war 30s but it was though another Kansas City musician that the genre gained national attention. Count Basie took to the sound and by the end of the war Jump Blues could be heard across the states. Raucous vocals often about partying accompanied the infectious rhythms. Following Lionel Hamptons 1942 hit Flying Home the saxophone became the leading instument of choice for the genre. The single had a riotious tenor solo by Illinois Jacquet that led to the sax being the leading instument in the same way that the mouth harp is with R&B. These players were known as “honkers”.

L-R; The Jump Blues Honkers, Big Jay McNeely, Chuck Higgins & Illinois Jacquet.

The most popular artist of Jump Blues was Louis Jordan and he, backed by his Tympany 5, produced a number of records which personify

the sound thoughout the 40s and into the early 50s till the music gave way to R&B. For me his 1949 Decca recording Saturday Night Fish Fry is the ultimate Jump Blues record. Its infectous rhythm and wild vocal delivery about partying still rocking dance floors in Oslo R&B clubs 60 years after it was made.

Louis Jordan was a great musician and, in my opinion, he was way ahead of his time.            

B.B King

Oct 24, 20111 note
Go Go Bo.

Oct 23, 20111 note
David Reeves. English Cut In New York.

   

With an eye for detail, passion for cloth and a natural talent tailor David Reeves (left) produces beautiful bespoke clothes, his work is a labour of love and it shows in his finished garments. He’s worked as a tailor for Gieves & Hawks and Richard James, and been involved with Paul Smith, Prada, Valentino and Comme des Garçons. These days David lives in New York. A modern English tailor, his “house style” offers clean lines and a fitted sharp cut. Clothing to grace anyones wardrobe.  Our man Henley asks David about his Modernist roots, making a suit for James Brown and his thoughts on the Row and the future for College no.9.

 

 

H.  Is it fair to say your interest in design and making high quality garments stems from your interest in the Modernist look? Who was the first person you saw dressed in that style that really grabbed your attention?

 

D.R. I think it is fair to say that. I am certainly a very “authentic Mod”, Im a working class man who likes the good things in life I’m not afraid to say that. I believe in working hard and reaping the rewards, Luxury and style are not dirty words to me. The look of my clothes may

not look very Modernist in some cases but the DNA is always there somewhere, and that may be in a color or a cloth or a styling detail. The biggest signifier and the most constant is the sheer neatness of the clothes in terms of fit. I think this is a very Modernist hallmark and its also one of the hallmarks of the clothes I make. 

 I cant remember seeing someone and getting a flash of inspiration to be honest. I was very much an indie kid in the 90s and I started there and got into the 90s Mod revival. I was into the more glam look of bands like Suede and Pulp rather than Oasis and Blur (although I liked them too). I then started getting into Belle and Sebastian the Devine comedy, David Bowie, Small Faces and Paul Weller and I just sort of discovered the look.

 

 H. Who made your first suit? 

 D.R. I cant remember the full name of the tailors but the chap was called keith and he had a place under a bridge in Leeds city centre. It was really a cheap MTM but it was a nice introduction and I got the styling right. It was a pale grey with a subtle pink stripe, double breasted, with a six button fastening, slanted pockets and a ticket pocket. I felt very different from everybody around me and this was sort of exciting. For the first time I was wearing clothes that actually fit me and made me look good and this was also good for my confidence. I ordered this suit when I was 19 and for about a year I ordered a new suit every 2 weeks from keith.

 H. You’ve worked on Savile Row at Richard James, how hard is it to get work as a tailor in the Row houses? What swung it for you?

 D.R. Well I think with Savile Row once your “in” your in. I started off at Gieves and Hawkes first as a part timer when I was at Leeds Met (and buying suits from Keith). With Gieves on my C.V doors would open for me. I had always admired Richard James and wanted to work there, by the time I was interviewed I had two years at Gieves and two years managing a “mainline” and formal section at Flannels so I was a good fit in that I understood “fashion retail” and I had the tailoring and service background of Gieves. What I think “swung it” though was that I had a lot of MTM experience and Richard was launching his MTM service at the time.

 H. As someone who’s never used Savile Row Richard James comes across as the shop that crosses the lines between fashion and the traditional quality of bespoke tailoring. The other houses seem to be either tradition tailoring styles set in stone or a more fashionable look but a little “fly by night”. An impression given by the older and newer firms who have slated each other in the past, this has left me, and no doubt many others reluctant to spend money there for fear of not getting VFM. Is this a fair reflection of the firms based there? What advice would you give to anyone thinking of using one of the Rows houses?

 D.R This is a very good question.

I think everyone has to start somewhere and we shouldn’t have a glass half empty approach to new businesses after all Henry Poole was once a new firm. I remember Richard would often talk about people being skeptical when he first started and as a relatively new business I have encountered this as well. That said there are some dodgy new places out there. I would say just do a bit of homework, it’s very easy today with the internet. Everyone has a past, if they seem to just pop up from nowhere I would be skeptical. If the people behind the business have a good track record working from other established firms this is a good sign. What’s also important is to just look at what they make, do you like it? Could you see yourself wearing it? Referrals are always a good sign as well. If the owner was a lawyer, banker or advertising guy prior to this and his manager and staff have no relevant industry experience either it could be a recipe for disaster. I don’t like to slate competitors myself, I would rather be judged by my work and what my clients have to say. This is a competitive business though with big egos so unfortunately the fur can sometimes fly. Remember you will always better off listening to a tailors clients rather than his competitor.

 H. You’ve worked for some of the big designer brands, what gives you more satisfaction, seeing something you’ve worked on becoming on sale in the high street and selling on a large scale, or making a one off for the individual client?

 D.R It’s quite a different feeling but I think I like producing for the individual clients better because of the relationships you build. Also I find it more challenging intellectually. Every piece is a one off and you have to hit that bulls eye every time with custom work.

 H. What made you decide to move to New York?

 D.R. A Friend of mine from Richard James had started working at Drakes and his predecessor had started working for Duncan Quinn in NYC. He was looking for a good shop manager and my Friend recommended me to him. It was a good opportunity and I took it. I then met my wife who is American and ended up staying permanently.

 H. How many suits do you make each year?  Whats the average time you spend on each suit?

 D.R.  Probably one a week and it takes about a week to produce each one.

 H. You had success on the tie collection that was made with your collaboration with Dormeuil, is this something you’d repeat in the future? Maybe to include Pocket Squares and scarfs?

 D.R. Yes I certainly would like to build on this. I look at my blog stats and I always imagine that my audience is predominantly NYC based but the blog truly gives me worldwide reach. I am doing business with people all over the world now even with custom and Bespoke pieces so items that can be bought off the shelf and shipped are a no brainer really. I am looking at doing an online shop with more ties and off the rack shirts as well as some very, very nice T shirts. I have no plans for scarves and pocket squares yet but its certainly a good idea and I’ll give it some thought.

 

Above; Part of Davids collection of ties made in collaboration with Dormeuil

H. Which is your favorite fabric to work with?

 

D.R.  Like a good Mod I like Mohair Tonik by Dormeuil. Its hard to work with and shows up any imperfections in fit but because its challenging thats why I like it. When it is done right it looks incredibly sharp.

 H. What was it like meeting and making a suit for James Brown?

D.R. I have met and made for a lot of celebrities and your just professional about it really. Its not very cool to ask for autographs and to gush over them. With James Brown he was one of the few where my brain just flipped because it James Brown! I was totally cool on the outside but I was quite chuffed and taken aback inside. He was just as bombastic and fabulous as you would imagine. A great experience for me and so great to meet the God Father of Soul.

 H. Can you ever see yourself returning to England? Maybe opening a shop on Savile Row?

 D.R. Would love to. Anyone that says Savile Row isn’t that important in mens tailoring anymore is either bull shitting or incredibly ignorant its still the gold standard. I think this is the only thing that could entice me back to England actually.

 

 
You can find out more about about David’s work and services here; 

http://www.davidreevesbespoke.com/
Oct 16, 20111 note
Play
Oct 15, 2011
Timeless '67.

Show stopping stuff from 1967.  Great design and detail.

Oct 14, 2011
No.9 at No.3.

 It’s well known that the boys round our way just love to add a bit of Drakes attire to finish off a really smart look. Drakes have been making hand made ties since 1977. Founded by Michael Drake the company is today the largest independent maker of hand made ties in northern europe and has grown to include a host of accessories as well as garments for men. It was only on May 20th of this year that Drakes opened its own store, located at no.3 Clifford street, Mayfair, London. Clifford street starts at one end from Savile Row so is well placed for anyone looking for accessories to compliment a new suit. Zesty-Boy makes it another port of call on College no.9’s world wide search for the best in modernist clobber.

 If you want a tie Drakes is the place to go, a huge selection of silks, cashmere and wool in fantastic patterns awaits the caller to their flagship store on Clifford st, Mayfair. All the ties are handmade and as one would expect only the very best fabrics are used. The shop is dressed simply and effectively. The shop stocks various items of menswear, all with the Drakes label on but its the ties I’m here for. The ties in the different types of silks and other fabrics are either laid out together on the table in the center of the store or on racks on the wall. The open fire place and leather chairs placed either side give the shop an almost lounge feel. On the mantel above the fireplace is a beautiful collection of linen pocket squares. I’m greeted by friendly staff but left to brouse for a few minutes before I’m asked if I need any help.

This is something I like when I’m shopping. I hate to be “dived on” as soon as I enter a store but I also don’t want to ask for help. I explain that I’m looking for ties to go with a new suit in navy blue. Solid navy of course lends itself to pretty much any colour tie and my assistant, Jake, takes me round the small store telling me about the various fabrics. I tell him I’m looking for a slightly longer tie, he shows me RTW at 160cm and 164cm (not so much to choose from though the staff were in the middle of restocking) and also the fabrics for their bespoke range. Bespoke it is then.                                                                                                          

There were around 100 different fabrics to choose from, woven, shantung and plain silks and cashmeres. After much deliberation I selected two plain silks, one paisley blue the other a patterned sky blue and a solid navy blue cashmere. Jake then asks which type of interlining I’d like, I only use a four in hand so the interlining will determine the size of the knot. There are three weights to choose from and Jake selects ties at 160cm and 164cm made with the middle weight interlining for me to try on. This is the standard interlining used in their RTW ties in these lengths. After selecting my interlining I go with the 160cm length which was just right for me. Next up for thought is the width of the blade. I settle on an 8cm blade, this is the widest piont of the tie. The width of the blade should be in proportion with a jackets lapel. Quite often this detail is over looked by men and if the proportions are wrong the whole combination is off balance. Jake then takes my details and will send me an email when the ties are ready to be shipped to me. As I do the nasty bit-pay for them-I saw a silk Salmon colour patterned PS, perfect for another suit I have. 

image

  

above; Zesty’s selections for his Drakes ties, his photography skills completely failing to capture the sheen on the cashmere and silk or the richness of colour in the paisley.

Now, as always with bespoke its just a question of waiting. Between 2 to 4 weeks. The service instore was of a quality that matched their products, the interior decor was relaxed and items were well displayed. After leaving Drakes I take a stroll down the Row, refecting on an enjoyable shopping experience. I can even forgive them for putting placing the rich coloured silk pocket squares next to the till, too tempting to resist. Like chocolate at the supermarket checkout. Check no.3 Clifford st. for neckwear for yourself. Its luxury at affordable prices.

Oct 13, 2011

Oct 12, 20111 note
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Oct 11, 2011
Play
Oct 11, 2011
A Persuading Style.

   As the late 60’s degenerated into a pit of velvet, flairs, man made fabrics and acid induced colourways, designers were ever pushing the extreme. Gone was the Ivy college look and classic sharp anglo-Italian suiting. The original concept of the first modernists was lost to street wise kids who wanted to put “their boots on their feet” and do their dancing on someones head in the kops and stands on a saturday afternoon. The early 70’s faired little better. Fashion was on a downward spiral, out of control, waiting to hit rock bottom with glamrock fashion. Former faces Mark Fielding, David Bowie and Rod would be adorned on the walls of thousands of teenager’s bedrooms dressed like complete knobs.

 Things were a little better in the world of film and on TV.  If you wanted to see some decent clobber in 1971, there was one show on TV that stood above all others. The Persuaders starred Tony Curtis and Roger Moore as millionaire playboys turned crime fighters. It was the most expensive TV series made at the time of recording. Filming started in April 1971. Curtis flew into Heathrow airport and made headlines for being in possession of cannabis, he was fined £50.

 Moores character Lord Brett Sinclair wears suits by Douglas Hayward. Curtis plays Danny Wilde and his character’s suits are

also by Hayward. As you’d expect of playboys it’s not only the clobber that’s stylish. Lord Brett and Danny W were driving an Aston Martin and Ferrari respectively.  Johnny Briggs was in charge of wardrobe for the 24 one hour episode series and it was directed by Val Guest. The Soundtrack music is by John Barry and is available today on CD. Dispite its worldwide success the show wasn’t well received in the USA. Due to the cost of making the series the lack of interest in the states meant there wouldn’t be enough  revenue generated to support another series being made. It is available as a box set on DVD and features all 24 episodes. Great entertainment from one of the most stylish TV shows of all time.

Yes, it was great fun doing The Persuaders, despite Tony Curtis. [laughter] I’ll tell you a funny story about that: “Tony was on pot at the time, and I used to have to say ‘Oh, go and have a smoke’m’, because he always had some gripe of some kind, and, one day, we were shooting on the Crossette in Cannes, and we’d been roped off our little thing, and there were crowds all around watching us film and everything, and Tony Curtis came down to do his scene and he was just carrying on at the wardrobe saying, ‘You didn’t do this, and you should have done that… and in Hollywood you would have been fired….’ And dear Roger Moore walked over, took him by the lapels, looked him straight in the eyes and said, ‘And to think those lips once kissed Piper Laurie’. Well, the whole of the Croisette collapsed, the unit collapsed, and, I must, say even Tony had to laugh”.—Val Guest, Director

Oct 10, 2011
New Stuff.

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Pissed off with buying Smedleys that lose their shape after a couple of washes? I know I am. Earlier this year I bought an Attolini polo from Shop The Finest in super fine cotton, feels lush. I’ve washed it 5 or 6 times and its kept its shape and colour. I belive the retail is around $450, as nice as their polo’s are I’m not sure their worth that but STF are selling them at a reasonable $149 plus post. The price of a Smedley but with the superior quality that Attolini offer. I’ve just bought another, in cream with navy trim.

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I needed a new scarf for the Autumn and found this baby in Eger by Portugese company Dielmar, made in Italy from pure silk. The missus thinks it’s very camp. I think it’s very cool. Hand rolled and sewn.

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Oct 9, 20112 notes
Jacobsen's Jewel.

Built between 1956 and 1960, the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel in Copenhagen, Denmark was the first Modernist designed hotel in the world. Designed by Arne Jacobsen, the hotel was a cutting edge building design with it’s almost brutalist look that was to become the unpopular modernist look in building design during the 1970’s. Standing tall above the skyline of the city’s other buildings, the hotel was in stark contrast to the city’s low rooftops and traditional Scandinavian buildings. Although now thought of as an iconic modernist architectural triumph, the building was disliked by many who thought it too imposing on the city, and it was unkindly reffered to as “the giant cigar box”.  It was in 1958 that Jacobsen designed the modernist iconic Egg and Swan chairs for the lobby and lounge areas. Jacobsen designed lamps, tables and even the knives, forks and spoons used in the resturants as well as the colourways for the rooms and public spaces. The hotel was Jacobsen’s  opportunity to put his theories of integrated design and architecture into practice, which he did with great success. In 1958 the Swan was an innovative design being the first ever chair to be designed using only curves.


what came first?; the Egg (left) or the Swan?

Built in the center of the city it boasts 260 rooms. The Hotel has since been refurbished with the modernist style being retained in the public areas and rooms. Room 606 still retains the original furniture, colour scheme and design from when the hotel opened and can still be rented.

above; Room 606, perfect for a modernist weekend away.

The hotel was built for SAS Airlines who owned the building until 2009, when they sold it to Raddison. It stands at 70 meters high and was Denmark’s first skyscraper and tallest building, until 1969. Jacobsen designed many of Denmark’s public buildings and he remains the country’s most important architect and designer of the modernist period.

Jacobsen’s cutlery designed for

the hotel is also now recognised as classic mid 20th century modernist design. The cutlery set was used in the cult film 2001: A Space Odyssey made in 1968, which was 11 years after the cutlery first went into production in 1957. This shows how radical and modernist the design was. The set is still being produced today by Danish company Georg Jensen Design. 

Oct 8, 2011
Timeless '67.

Oct 7, 2011
Play
Oct 5, 20113 notes

Oct 4, 20111 note
Haywards Way.

  One of the most iconic tailors of the 60’s, Douglas Hayward, came from a working class background and became the tailor and friend of the wealthy and famous as well as one of the best British tailors of all time. Hayward delivered a style as unique as the way he ran his business. Henley looks at the history of a man who did it the way he wanted.

   Douglas Hayward, was the son of a boiler stoker, who grew up in the working class district of Haynes on the outskirts of London, was born in 1934. A bright child, he gained a scholarship to attend Southall grammar school. Upon leaving school he began his life long career in bespoke tailoring, saying later in life that he chose tailoring as he didn’t know any tailors, so no one would know if he was a bad tailor. He started work as an apprentice to a tailor in Sheperds Bush before doing national service in the Navy. After completing his service in the navy he returned to his apprenticeship while working for himself during the evenings. Hayward then went on to work with Dimitro Major. Major was a tailor who catered for many of the showbiz stars of the early 60’s.  Clients included Terrence Stamp and Peter Sellers. He continued to work in the evenings for himself and finally set up on his own. After a slow start his old customers found him, the quality of his work on their suits brought new customers to him. As his clientel of the rich and famous grew his need for a bigger premises led to the legendary 95 Mount St, Mayfair.

  Mount Street was to be the opposite of

bespoke tailoring on Savile Row. Hayward saying of “The Row”; “It was Victorian, all stag heads and portraits of the Queen mum, stern men with glaring looks”. At Mount street clients would be greeted with champagne and sit on the sofas while waiting for fittings. Often celebs bumped into each other with their entourages and inpromptu parties were not unheard of, reflecting the feel good times of Swinging London.  It was at Mount st. where Michael Caine  was to have his first Haywood suit, it was also to be the start of a lifelong friendship. As well as the huge list of stars Hayward made suits for, he also made the clothes for the films The Italian Job & Modesty Blaise. His reputation reached across the “pond” with Sammy Davis jnr., Tony Bennett and Steve McQueen amongst his American clientel. Another fan was Ralph Lauren. So impressed was Lauren with his suits that he introduced his Purple Label range based on the quality of Haywards garments, even taking advise from the London tailor. Neither did Hayward only make clothes for men. Jean Shrimpton wore his creations.

Dapper Charlie Choker wears Hayward suits.

  Caine took some of his friends persona for his iconic character Alfie Elkins in the film Alfie. Another customer and friend was playwriter John Le Carre who credits Hayward for the inspiration behind the film The Tailor Of Panama.

“It’s impossible not to see some of Doug in Alfie”.

Michael Caine                                                                           

Douglas Hayward was the first to adopt Italian flare to the “English cut” making his suits as different as the way he ran his bespoke service. He never went OTT, there was never gimmicks. His style was conservative and relaxed. It’s the combination of the two styles, coupled with the high quality of his work that makes him considered one of the great tailors of British bespoke.

 Douglas Hayward.

 5.10.1934-26.04.2008

Oct 3, 20111 note
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